Tetris
Got plywood board for Tetris
Last night I took a trip to get a “free” plywood board to mount the 19″ monitor in the Tetris. Granted, it cost my gas, and it was in Avon area, but still a bit cheaper I suppose than buying a whole sheet new. It is 25 x 36 x 3/4″, which should be thick enough to support a monitor and I held it up last night, it is big enough to fit in the space I need.
Now I just need to get some help making it fit the Tetris, with the holes cut for the monitor and bolts. I am going to try to secure some help Friday for the next week.
Now I have to test that monitor’s diodes in the basement:)
More Tetris Photos
In trying to figure out what or how I am going to mount a 19″ monitor in the dynamo Tetris cabinet, here are some more photos of the front and the back directly on.
Dynamo Tetris Cabinet takes a 25″ monitor?
That would change things for me a little bit. I had no idea until I got to looking at it yesterday and thought, there is no way I can just put a 19″ raster arcade monitor into this Tetris. I did some measuring and asked Tim, and sure enough, I would need to do some woodworking or something else to mount the monitor I have in this cabinet.
So, I have to ask myself, is the work worth it? It is a Jamma cabinet, I looked at that yesterday, so that is cool for a multi-use kind of situation, but do I want to do all the work on this game to get a monitor to mount? Mind you, I feel like there would need to be some engineering because of the weight of the monitor in the cabinet, mounted to only wood in this case (currently), and then what? I sell the game? I don’t want to keep space just for a Tetris, I would rather have a Playchoice 10 for that.
I have to think about it really good. Maybe I can sell that one two, but it is a lot more unlikely.
Tetris Cabinet
The fourth of four cabinets I got today.
This was a cabinet I saw in Tim’s garage when we met in December. When we started to discuss this trade, I suggested this game. I was remembering for some reason that it had a monitor, but it doesn’t. But, pop in a monitor and a PCB, and it should work. I do love Tetris, I debated on whether or not I would keep it based on the space and the fact that I could just get Tetris in a Playchoice. I will probably fix it up, and then end up selling it to cover my travel costs. Of all the cabs, this should be the most simple. Clean it a little, track down the parts, I have a monitor, and I could have it up and working relatively quick.
G07 Blowing a F902 Fuse
I got this monitor last year in October. I bought a bowling game that worked completely for $150 and this monitor was thrown into the deal. I immediately sold the bowling cab and everything in it for $50, keeping the monitor that worked and the one that was bad.
The one that was “bad”, worked fine the original owner said, until he did something early one morning maybe before it had warmed up, or just without thinking.
There was a blown fuse that needed to be replaced, so that is what I did. I powered the monitor up and it blew the fuse again. So the monitor sat.
Now, with the possibility that I might need it for the Xevious game, or another game, the timing was perfect when I read a thread on KLOV about what to look for to repair a G07 that is blowing the F902 Fuse. The post said that a bad Flyback and HOT (Horizontal Output Transistor – Had to have someone help me with that acronym) can cause this to happen. Usually when the flyback goes bad it takes the HOT with it. Bob Roberts has a kit that includes caps for the chassis for all of this stuff for most monitors for around $40.
I emailed him and asked him if this sounded correct. What he told me sounded more accurate. Remember the previous owner made a mistake when working with the monitor, maybe he plugged it in without a isolation transformer. Here is Bob’s email
When F902 blows it is 95% due to a shorted diode D901 thru 904 commonly
shorted by someone plugging them in without an isolation, but they can short from a simple voltage surge, as well.
When F901 blows it is 95% of the time due to a shorted flyback with the remaining 5% delegated to the HOT or other HV compent shorting.
I wish I would have emailed him about this a long time ago, or posted on the KLOV forums. Sounds like something I can test easy, figure out where those diodes are, do a continuity test and go from there. But it may be a cheap fix to just replace the diodes, and I thought $40 to repair and get a working monitor wasn’t too bad if it was a sure fix.
If it really is F901 that is blowing, then a flyback, HOT & fuses would be $30.50 making buying the kit more economical. There are no holders made to fit the mis-aligned G07 chassis… the reason that pigtail fuses are needed.
