Wizard of Wor problem was a sync issue

I couldn’t believe it a little bit myself, for how bad those lines were, but that is exactly what it was. Once I started messing around with both vertical and horizontal sync, I got the picture back square and almost stationary. Except, no matter how fine of an adjustment I make, the screen still rolls. The lines are gone, so Mark’s fix worked just fine, but I can’t fix the vertical sync.

I made sure the card was seated, and adjusted everything but it still slowly rolls. I just replace the caps in that, what, a month ago, so those shouldn’t be an issue. I suppose the connection could be bad. Not sure what to do, need to have time to research a solution, but I suppose I could finalize one of my other two almost working monitors and swap them in. But then, I would still have this one that I would have to fix at some point….

Or I could just sell it. It mostly works and would just need a touch of tlc. I don’t know how desirable a 19K4600 Wells Gardner monitor is…

Finished putting Wells Gardner Monitor back together

I went out and got a new ratchet so I could more easily put the Wells Gardner monitor parts back together and get the monitor plugged back up to the Wizard Of Wor game. I was glad that I had the extra arcade game cabs so that they could serve as a work bench.

The Wells Gardner monitor was a difficult cap kit replacement to work on, so I was glad that everything powered up just fine when I turned the Wizard of Wor game on. But, unfortunately when the monitor lit up, it still had the lines going through the opening screen and gameplay. The cap kit didn’t fix my game issue, and now I have to go back to the drawing board.

Wizard Of Wor Lines Playing ScreenWizard Of Wor Lines Intro Screen

19K4635 Wells Gardner Monitor – Difficult to do a cap kit

It was cool outside last night, and I was feeling motivated, so I started the cap kit on the Wells Gardner 19K4600 model monitor.

Let me tell you, I thought doing a cap kit on this monitor was for an advanced user, not for the faint of heart.

I had the hardest time figuring out how to get at the bottom of the chassis board. I finally figured out that you need to unscrew the cross beams from both sides of the frame. Then, pull the sides apart and get the chassis out. There are a number of different connectors that you need to unplug, one or two from the neckboard, and a couple from the 19K4635 chassis. But even unplugging them all doesn’t matter.

Underneath the chassis board is a metal plate, held on by four screws. You have to take those screws off and then you have the plate hanging off the chassis board. There is some sort of discharge? copper spool that is soldered from the plate to the chassis board that unless you want to solder it all, you can’t take it off.

So, it was on big balancing act. Most of the caps are on the cards that plug into the chassis. One large cap, a 1000 u 35V? on the one card, and a ton of caps on the other card.

I found that on this monitor, most of the time, the size of the caps were downgraded significantly. I don’t know if this indicates how long it has been since a cap kit has been done or not, but there was a ton of dust on the chassis so I don’t think it has been for awhile.

I had found my cap kit list for this 19K4635 Wells Gardner monitor at Ionpool, and chose the Zanen Kit #201A. I don’t know why I chose this one over the WICO, I don’t know the difference. But I am glad I did, the Zanen version had more caps.

But I did find that I needed three other caps that I will have to go back for. Those three are;

  • 1000u 35V
  • 4.7u 25V
  • 22u 16V